Not without my cat

Just a few meows, some might call it rantings and ravings..

Location: Jiddah, Saudi Arabia

An old Cologne cat that had to adapt to a new home.. lol

Thursday, September 15, 2005

The dreaded Abaya

(second eeeek-ranting)

Okay, let's face it - women in Saudi Arabia are all forced to wear an ominous black cloak and hide themself as much as possible. My macho husband even expects me to wear a niqab which covers the face beneath the eyes. Shocking, isn't it?

Now there are pious Muslim women who will tell you how such a cover will make you feel proud and free inside which Western women usually do not understand. I won't tell you anything like this, I am not a particularly pious Muslim woman. I've been an agnostic all my life and I guess there's still too much of it left.

So do I mind wearing the abaya? No.

And why should I? It's the tradition of my husband's country and I just respect it, as a matter of politeness. Running around on a Saudi street without the abaya is something akin to visiting the Cologne philharmony in your nightie, I guess I would be ashamed of doing either one.

And no, it wasn't a big deal to get used to it. Personally I had more problems getting used to my husband's traditional outfit. I never had seen any Saudi men in this dress before, at least not life, I've never been to an Arab country. The very first time I saw my habibi in thobe and ghutra I had quite some difficulties to keep a straight face and swallow down a question such as 'Oops? Do we have carneval?'
It took a while until I stopped teasing him that he should take good care of me when we're out so I would not accidently walk after the wrong man.

However, my first attempt of getting dressed up in full stealth mode was a disaster. We were still in Germany and my husband, being the expert, had ordered a complete wardrobe, abaya, niqab, khimar, and some stuff we couldn't really identify afterwards. The abaya was a normal coat with sleeves and my husband frowned at it at once because he thought it was ordinary (remember, he bought it..).
I had naively figured there would be something you can easily pull over your head, instead we had a mass of sheets, layers, cloths, and no idea how to fiddle it all together. My Saudi expert for Islamic women wear was as clueless as I was and we finally admitted defeat.

My husband swallowed his pride and called up one of his mothers (yes, he has two.. ;) for help. Alhamdullilah! I'll never know how she managed but scarcely 36 hours later we received an express delivery from Saudi Arabia - and wow!! - that was an abaya!

It was a socalled open style abaya, all silk and an embroidery so delicate like I never saw any before. All black in black with only minuscule sprinkles of gold in its edges it was probably the most beautiful piece of fabric I've ever seen. It was quite easy to put on, even when we still needed some telephone instruction for otherwise I would not have found the hidden tiny buttons to close it. The niqab was a single layer that even I could figure out how to put on.

And I felt like a queen in days of old, the only problem remaining was how to sit down or get up without having the whole thing slipping off my head. I guess I moved a bit stiffly the first few times. The second obstacle was to learn how to discreetly straighten your backside before sitting down so the fabric won't get wrinkled up. Silk has a 1000 advantages but one downside - it wrinkles and if you're not careful you look like you slept in it for three days.

I still do prefer this style of abaya, not only because I love its flowing elegance but because it is easy to wear and very practical. No matter what you wear beneath it will never press or even squash on the fabric. Since I prefer long, wide clothes, especially caftans, galabiyas or as the height of modernity salwar kameez I just don't like an abaya with sleeves, anything that would cause the clothes beneath to wrinkle. Besides, in temperatures like 40 degree celsius you really don't want anything pressed against your skin - the wider, the better. You can cool down by just waving the abaya around you, but take care nobody watches you doing this for people might think you're a lunatic who tries to fly.

A niqab is not obligatory these days, least of all the fully veiled one complete with gloves and stockings, perhaps unless you live in some remote village with five houses and twenty imams. My family prefers it, however some of my younger inlaws don't wear it anymore. My husband thinks it keeps trouble away and frankly, as long as I think he prefers me wearing it I wear it. It has something mysteriously to it and I can't say I don't like this aspect.

So I got used to the abaya - so much that I sometimes miss it when in Germany. It's just so easy to simply throw it above whatever you just happen to have on, be it your most adventurous designer galabiya that would make Germans think your on your way to a costume festival or be it your sloppiest hang-around-caftan. No worries about your hair either. But neither me nor my husband wear traditional dress while we're here and for all those who already envisioned the picture of a fierceful 18th century 'Wahhabi', he does not even ask me to cover my hair. When in Rome, do as the Romans.

Well, so much fuss about the abaya when it is just a dress, more a traditional dress but a religious one. Sure one can complain about the fact that women in Saudi are obliged to wear it when outside, but what makes it so hard to just accept it, and if for no other reason than courtesy?

Is it maybe that Saudis themself do not seem to be too happy about it? One thing that always strikes me is watching women when flying out of Saudi Arabia. The plane has scarcely left the ground and everybody hops up to get rid of their outer wear. The first time I thought it very funny (especially after sending an asking look to my husband and he just shrugged his shoulders and said 'Fleas, perhaps...')
It's not that they put it away at all - as said, we do the same. Just not in such a hurry, as if one second more would cost a life. It really does not mediate anything like pride of their tradition. It rather looks as if they cannot wait to get away and rid of anything reminding of it.

I've always been a bit stubborn and so I usually just stay put and keep my abaya on. I'll put it out early enough when we reach our destination, no need to hassle. And I'll ignore those looks at my husband (when after all only he could be responsible for my behaviour)... He will just smile into himself then. Being married to me he's hard in taking..

But then I'm not sure if Saudi women are to blame. I had a telling encounter at the Frankfurt airport when my husband left me for a few minutes standing at some desk, still wearing the abaya. Two airport women in front of me - expected to treat me politely since I should have been supposed to be a guest to the country - exchanged some remarks how pitiful I would look. Either they were sure I could not speak German or they simply didn't care. One said to the other that she never ever could be forced into such a 'body bag'.
I usually do not poke fun at other people's imperfections but in this case I just couldn't resist. I told her - in broadest Cologne dialect - that it would be close to impossible anyway to find an abaya she would fit in, an that the only solution in her case would be a medium sized bedouin tent. You should have seen their jaws dropping at the counter..

Oh by the way - in Belgium the wearing of abaya plus niqab is outlawed. I kid you not, you really will be arrested and have to pay a fine for it... juhuuuu, welcome to a free country!


Blogger Farooha said...

GREAT read, Rani!

I loved it!
I think I'm guilty of hurrying to take my abayah off on the plane... lol. But I'd still have my hijab on, if that counts?

4:26 AM  
Blogger Abu Sinan said...

Great story! It does count Farah, by the way. Dont you love it when people think you cannot speak the language? I went to a Starbucks the other night. I am a coffee fanatic. Anyway, I am wearing a short sleeve shirt. I have a few tattoos, well, I have a lot. Anyway, as we all know Arab men are known for hanging out at coffee shops and it is no different here in the DC area.

I get into line to order the standard Venti, skim, no foam latte. Next to the line is a table full of Arab guys. They start bantering about my tattoos. They were talking in a normal conversational voice, which for Arab males at a coffee shop is rather loud. One said my arms look like an art museum, the other told a story about wanting to get one, but knowing his family would kill him, ect. Finally, one asks "How many do you think he has." I turned around, looked at my arms and said "Madre.....siteen?"

LOL! The looks on their faces. If it was on video it would have got the "Funniest video" award. They were nice enough guys and asked me loads of questions about where I leaned Arabic and the like.

I am never surprised anymore when people speak different languages when you dont expect it. I know how many others get surprised when I speak Arabic. Often they will sit there, not say a word, because they are certain I said something in English they didnt understand until it sinks in, "Hey, this blond haired blue eyed American just talked to me in Arabic."

I know how they feel. A whole back I was at a book shop and an American white guy heard me speak Arabic and came up and started speaking to me in Arabic. I sat there, confussed. Now I know what the Arabs felt when I talked to them.

Anyway, great post. If you want Abayas here in the metro DC area head to Tysons Mall or Pentagon City mall. Always full of Khaliji women wearing abayas shopping for Coach, Gucci and LV. I get a kick out of seeing the people from the UAE and Saudi Embassies, shopping at Walmart wearing niqab....

3:09 PM  
Blogger Rani said...

Hi Farooha, yes, that counts! ;) You're actually better than I am, because to be honest I don't really like the hijab and often dodge myself around it, rather using a shawl for the hair - and often one that is more or less transparent and wouldn't really fulfil the requirements of modesty lol. That's another advantage of the open style abaya, no-one can see what's beneath it. Old trick from my mothers in law for the biggest heat: have it attached with snap fasteners to two big hair combs. It sits like limed on (provided you have long hair) and you can save the hijab altogether. They are two decent ladies in their 60s to 70s that would never go out without niqab - and yet they know the best cheats! That's what I love them for!

Abu Sinan, how I envy you!!
My Arabic is absolutely lousy, whenever I open my mouth people start laughing.. :( I'm an idiot in languages. My husband speaks fluently English, German and French and gets along in Spanish but I am hopeless. And Arabs always talk so fast..

My most shameful experience was at some shop where one of my mothers in law wanted to get some fruits. While she looked around I spotted fine cheese and wanted to have goat cheese. The guy couldn't talk English, fine, in I went with my best Arabic. He just stared, shook his head and started rattling along, and I didn't understand one single word. I thought I had pronounced something wrong and started again. He talked even more, he was arguing with hands and feet. I tried again. Somewhere behind my back were some women giggling. My mother in law came to the rescue, burst out laughing, bought some cheese and dragged me out of the shop. She laughed all the way home. It turned out I had tried to buy a goat and the poor guy was desperately trying to make me understand that he does not sell goats..

But I love the sound of the language, especially when it's sung. I'll learn it one day!

10:22 PM  
Blogger Abu Sinan said...

Rani, thanks, but I dont know that much, trust me. What I do know is more dialect. Trust me, you'll het no "foosha" from me. I have taken two university classes in Arabic and found it very hard because they were teaching me classic proper Arabic and I was trying to unlearn the Hijazi dialect stuff that I had learned from my family. Everything from the words I used to the way I pronounced them. Arabic is just really hard. I was born in German and find German much easier. Although now, when I go to the local German deli, because I dont use the German much I mix it with Arabic. The other day I actually said "Ihdnini vier bretzel" They guy thought I was crazy...

Languages are group into three classes based on difficulty to learn. German is on number 1, the easiest, Arabic is on number 3 with Mandern Chinese.

Even if you learn the classroom Arabic it doesnt mean you will be able to communicate with other Arabs. I remember having to work late a few months ago. I was with a Sudanese guy and a Morroccan. We were discussing what food to get. Kababs it was. When I told him I wanted lamb, he was confused, he didnt know the word I used for lamb, "doni" (excuse transliteration, a real weak spot for me) The Sudanese guy knew, but we had to explain to him in English.

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Blogger Nzingha said...

Perhaps it is because they plane is heading to Europe that women take off their abyas. I go on vacation to Malaysia and you start to feel like your in the gulf because the women keep their abyas and veils on. I think it is the destination that makes it so much of a difference for women here. If they don't feel comfortable in the country they are visiting to wear it they won't. Like the US it usually comes off on a flight there as well, but I don't blame 'em one bit.

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Blogger dogbert said...

Love your blog and it's going on my 'To-read' list.

Speaking of Abayas. Once I was out shopping in a traditional souq with my mother (who wears a niqab+abaya). For just a single moment I went into a shop to look at something and then returned to join her. I must have walked for atleast 5 minutes, before 'my mom' turned around and yelled at me 'ishtabee?'. I had been following the wrong person! Even today when I remind my mom about it, she ends up in tears with laughter.

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Blogger Jordan said...

Very good read!

I must admit, I am 100% against women being forced to cover themselves up, as my Iranian girlfriend says... "we are not walking vaginas!" (incedently, she got kicked out of class for that one)

I don't know... I have no problem with respecting one's culture. But isn't there a fine line between respect and repression?

Is dressing up like a ninja and walking behind your husband a beautiful religious tradition, or a terrible showcase of obvious male-supremecy.

In the end, its not the act itself that bothers me, its the threats of going to prison if you do not comply.

But I respect the fact that you WILLINGLY embraced the culture. That is 100% your choice! Just don't forget your Vitamin E :)

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